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[lashmar]

Anyway. Look at this environmental issue that we’re having at the moment as an opportunity not just to save the planet but a good time to start saving yourself some money.

It costs hundreds of dollars a year to heat and light your house so why don’t you do it yourself.

A few solar panels on the roof could save you lots of money. A few solar water heaters could as well.

Basically look at this moment as an opportunity to get free energy with grants from the government witch means it becomes even cheaper.


Electric Energy Production Explained:

Home Power Unit explained in video

Amp meters explained in video

Best Youtube Channels:

Over Onity One

Rotary piston engine

[/url=http://www.theufobunker.com/index.php?topic=641.msg3187#msg3187] Link to how it works [/url]

Link to patent office.

Link to his website and more information:

Miscellaneous:

GEET engine, water-powered engine

Air Powered Car

Energy test, just to see how green you are now and then how green you are after. I don’t think I’ve ever used green so many times in a sentence. This is why

Books about Home energy

Smokers:

Building a hot smoker

[Mr. TOP SECRET]

Thanks Lashmar. Im going to sticky this topic 

[lashmar]

Cool

I have a sticky...that sounded rude for some reason.

[Mr. TOP SECRET]

  lol

[lashmar]

the GEET fule processor runs on a mix of Fuel and Water. This isn’t mine, you know the general legal BS I don’t need to go through it with you,:

Paul Pantone has invented the GEET Fuel Processor which you can run a car on 80% water or more. Paul has become a horrific example of inventor abuse by corrupt Utah officials and businessmen.


Paul Pantone is the ruthlessly persecuted inventor and developer of systematic experimental engines & generator modifications intended to double or triple gas mileage as they reduce greenhouse gasses & pollutants by over 90%.

Paul Pantone's energy efficiency system is called GEET (Global Environmental Energy Technology). Mr. Pantone has been developing it for 25 years.

http://www.geet.nl/indexeng.php

This is a greatly simplified 'Proof of Concept' version of the GEET Fuel Processor that just about anyone can build from parts from a local Hardware store in a weekend for very low cost. A used lawnmower engine will be used for demonstration purposes so things will be easier to see without obstructions.

Tools needed - pipe wrench, crescent wrench, spring tube benders, pipe cutter, pipe flaring tool, allen wrench, soldering equipment, file, and screw driver. Obtain all your parts and tools needed for the conversion ahead of time.

Most professional plumbing supply stores stock higher quality parts compared to large home centers cheap plumbing parts. The savings aren't that much on a small project like this. The most crucial quality part is on the inner pipe, problems arise from inconsistent wall thickness, out of roundness, thick weld seams, etc on low quality pipe.

Strip down the engine removing the gas tank, muffler, and carburettor. Remove the mower blade and replace with a 12' diameter steel disk flywheel of the same thickness as the blade for safety.

For the first time you do this use a lawnmower engine becuase they're easy and cheap to get a hold of, doesn't really matter if it doesn't work first time , and they're easier to work with if you're not used to working on engines. And when your done with it you can hook it up to a battery and use that to power your shed/garage/workshop whatever you need really if you have enough battery’s.

http://www.geet.nl/geet2.htm

Take the 1'x1/2'x1/2' reducing tees and mount them on a 1' nipple (short pipe) (*they really need to get that nipple looked at if you ask me lol ), and then using a lathe, machine the end smooth and fly cut (bore out) the hole in the end 27/32' (21mm) so that the 1/2' inner pipe will slide inside. This procedure can also be done by using a drill press to drill a 27/32' or 7/8' hole in the end of the tee and then use a file to smooth the roughness off.

The 1/2' pipe connector and 1/2' tee will each need to have one end smoothed off as well to receive the copper washers as a tight seal. If anyone has a machine shop that would like to do this for others, contact GEET. We might also offer a complete kit that has all the parts ready to be assembled in minutes if there's enough interest.

http://www.geet.nl/images/geet3.jpg

Have a plumber or plumbing center cut your inner reactor 1/2' pipe to 16 + 7/16' and thread both ends. Use Black Pipe here because galvanized pipe gives off toxic fumes if heated too much. File the 12' x 1/2' multi-fuel steel rod to a bullet point on one end only. (7 + 3/8' x 1/2' for gasoline only) This will keep you out of trouble later if you can't remember which way the rod points. The engine will not run if the rod is put in backwards after it has a magnetic signature.

Assemble the parts in order as in the above picture using the 7/8' / 22mm copper washers used in oil drain plugs for cars. (2 - 1'x1/2'x1/2' machined reducing tees joined by the 12' long 1' nipple, slide the 16 + 7/16' long 1/2' reactor pipe inside, add a copper washer on each end and then add the 1/2' connector and 1/2' tee.)

http://www.geet.nl/images/geet4.jpg

Assemble the other valve component subassemblies above. The 1/2' thick steel intake / exhaust adapter plate above is used only on some engines like 'Tecumseh' and Overhead Valve Engines (picture 9).

Some 'Briggs and Stratton' engines, etc usually already have the exhaust threaded for 1/2' pipe, but the intake is on the other side of the engine causing longer hose runs. Also a compression pipe connector or a piece of rubber hose with clamps will need to be connected from the engine intake to the Bubbler pipe.

(1/2' valve (Air Mixture Valve), 1 1/2' x 1/2' nipple, 1/2' tee, 1 1/2' x 1/2' nipple, 1/2' valve (Throttle Valve), 1/2' to 1/4' pipe reducer bushing, half of 3' x 1/4' nipple.) and (Muffler, 1/2' ball valve (Optional - Back pressure valve), 3' x 1/2' nipple, 1/2' tee, 1/2' to 1/4' pipe reducer bushing, half of 3' x 1/4' nipple, 1 1/2' nipple.)

http://www.geet.nl/images/geet5.jpg

Take 10 3/4' x 1/2' copper pipe and solder a copper 1/4' NPT - 1/2' pipe adaptor on one end and a 1/2' cap on the other. Drill a 1/16' hole through the cap, turn 90 degrees and drill through again, also one up through the bottom. Take the other 1/4' NPT - 1/2' adaptor and cut off the thin wall portion to make a pipe nut and file smooth for inside the Anti-Freeze jug.

http://www.geet.nl/images/geet7.jpg

Take a 1 gallon anti-freeze jug and drill a 1/2' hole near the top of the jug and through the cap as illustrated. Assemble the parts together in the following order. (Hose, half of 3' x 1/4' nipple, 1/4' pipe connector, short 3/4' nipple, bushing, hole in jug, bushing, and pipe nut.) and ( (Optional - Back Pressure Hose), half of 3' x 1/4' nipple, 1/4' pipe elbow, short 3/4' nipple, bushing, hole in jug cap, bushing, and soldered pipe.)

http://www.geet.nl/images/geet8.jpg

The port adapter was formed by cleaning the intake and exhaust ports off. Then dipping a finger in the exhaust port to get some soot to rub on wide masking tape taped over the ports. This then leaves a perfect template to then tape into a 1/2' thick piece of steel, then drill the mounting and the port holes and tap the ports with a 1/2' NPT thread tap.

http://www.geet.nl/images/geet9.jpg

Use 1/2' tubing for 10 HP or less (* 5/8' tubing and flare fittings for 10-20 HP) with a 1/2' tubing spring bender and form a loop, then remove the spring. Slide the flare nuts on each end, and then slide the flaring tool on so that the pipe sticks out about 3/16', make the flared ends. (Air-Conditioning supply houses carry flare fittings if you have difficulty finding them.)

http://www.geet.nl/images/geet10.jpg

Assemble all the parts onto the engine, and then add a 1' pipe support or 1 1/4' exhaust hangar. Fill the bubbler up no more than 1/4 full till you get used to using it (up to half full later), have someone steady the jug while starting the engine so it doesn't spill into the hoses. If wet fuel gets on the reaction rod it will stop running, you'll have to dry your rod and hoses out. You can hang it from the mower handle if you like later after it's started.

You must point the exhaust end of the rod due North while starting the engine the first time and let it run for 30 min to 'burn in the rod'. The rod will self center magnetically by itself after it's running or you can weld three bumps on each end to center the rod (file them to fit snugly).

Leave the optional back pressure valve open, open the throttle and mixture valve about halfway, and start the engine by varying the air mixture valve.

Then slowly increase the throttle wide open while adjusting the air mixture valve. Make sure to paint all external pipes and connectors with High Temperature Grill Paint or they will rust very quickly. (Except copper, brass or galvanized)

http://www.geet.nl/images/geet11.jpg

For an installation on a generator, you can also use 90 degree elbows to keep the pipes within the cage. Mount the GEET Fuel Processor as far away as possible from the generator magnetic field so they do not interfere with each other. Also be very careful with credit cards in your pockets or video cameras, etc from getting too close to the engine while it's running so they won't be erased.

http://www.geet.nl/images/geet12.jpg

Finally - Experiment with the optional Back Pressure valve to run closed loop on heavy fuels, different materials for the inner pipe and reaction rod. Different rod lengths and also threaded rods, engine side of the reactor locations for the air mixture and/or throttle valves, exhaust heated copper tubing from the bubbler to the throttle valve, 5 gallon bubblers, double bubblers for non-soluble fuels, vacuum gages, etc, etc, and also 'alternative fuels'.

I'll price all that up and stuff in a sec. Might take awhile but hopefully I'll do it in the next few days.

[lashmar]

Link to there site:

http://www.geet.nl/free-geet-plans.php

and the basic plan:

http://www.geet.nl/images/diagram.jpg

[Mr. TOP SECRET]

Nice! Keep it coming lashmar 

[lashmar]

things you'll need to build this:

Fuel Processor Parts list

    * 1 - 16 7/16" x ½" Black Pipe - (Cut + Threaded)
    * 1 - 12" x 1" Black Pipe Nipple (painted)
    * 1 - 12" x ½" Steel Rod
    * 2 - 1" x ½" x ½" Galvanized Reducing Tees (Ward - best)
    * 2 - 22mm / 7/8" Copper Oil Drain Plug Washers
    * 1 - 2" x ½" Galvanized Pipe Nipple
    * 1 - ½" Galvanized Pipe Connector
    * 1 - 1" Galvanized Pipe Hangar with Bolt & Nuts
    * 3 - 1½" x ½" Galvanized Pipe Nipples
    * 1 - 3" x ½" Galvanized Pipe Nipple
    * 3 - ½" NPT Ball Valves (B&K - best)
    * 1 - ½" Galvanized NPT Muffler
    * 2 - ½" Galvanized Pipe Tees
    * 2 - ½" x ¼" Galvanized Pipe Reducing Bushings
    * 1 - Can Hi-Temp Grill Paint
    * 27" - ½" Copper Tubing (* 5/8")
    * 2 - ½" NPT / ½¾" Brass Male Flare Fitting (* 5/8")
    * 2 - ½" Brass Flare Nuts (* 5/8")

Bubbler

    * 1 - 1 gallon Anti-Freeze Jug
    * 4 - ½" Galvanized Hose Clamps
    * 6' - ½" ID Clear Vinyl Hose - (cut in half)
    * 2 - 3" x ¼" Galvanized Pipe Nipples - (cut in half)
    * 4 - 9/16" Galvanized Bushing Washers - (1/8" thick)
    * 1 - ¼" Galvanized Pipe Elbow
    * 2 - ¾" x ¼" Galvanized Pipe Nipples
    * 1 - ¼" Galvanized Pipe Connector
    * 1 - 10¾" x ½" Copper Water Pipe
    * 1 - ½" Copper Pipe Cap
    * 2 - ½" x ¼" NPT Copper Pipe Adapters

[lashmar]

Keep with me because I’m having to convert US plumbing speak into UK plumbing speak and then convert imperial into metric because god forbid we can use imperial inside the EU. I'm not a plumber either BTW.

I’m odd I still use pound and ounces. Feet and yards, not too much in ¼ inches though.

[lashmar]

Right priced it up yesterday, forgot to post it, and it comes to £60 but I didn’t look about to find the best prices and that.


Now what is going on with this ` Karma ` thing then? And how do you, Mr. Top secret, have over a thousand already? You’ve fixed it haven’t you. lol